#strProject#: www.lasercutcard.co.za
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)
Before you beginMake images smaller | Make images bigger

The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card and MDF. To keep the parts on the card there are some small tabs that you will need to cut.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, cut through the remaining lines to release the part.

The MDF pieces only need to be pushed out of the frame. Some of them are quite thin so be careful with these pieces.

I use superglue for construction as it bonds fairly quickly (within 3 seconds) but feel free to use whatever glue you are comfortable with. White wood glue also works well.

  1. the basic hull
  2. the hull details
  3. the wheels
  4. 90mm turret
  5. ZT3 turret
  6. 20mm turret
Part 1 - the basic hull

Begin by removing the main hull part shown.

Most of the folds bend down but if you flip it over you will see one fold that is perforated that is intended to fold the other way. Lightly score these so that the card can bend easily but do not cut through.

Once you have done this, flip the card over again and bend all the joins slightly to get them started.

Fold the sides up and glue as shown. The sides should fit underneat the front/back pieces as shown

Remove the main top hull piece. It also has one perforation that is intended to fold the other way. Lightly score this so that it bends easily

Bend all the other folds to get them started. You might want to lightly score the folds on the very sides (blue arrows) to let them bend cleanly.

Start at the back

Fold down the sides and glue the back piece over them.

Then fold the rear pieces over the side as shown

Fold down the front and glue it in place

When you are folding it round the front plate, don't worry about gluing the triangular part indicated by the red arrow... just tuck this in and fold over it.

The upper hull should now look like this.

Now slide the lower hull into the upper hull. You will need to bend back the upper hull either at the back or the front to get it in. Once it is in, the lower hull should touch the top of the upper hull.

Don't glue it in place... you might need to make some small adjustments to it later when you add the wheels.

If you don't believe me, skip to the very last step in this instruction sheet.

Part 2 - detailing the hull

Remove the bottom hatch pieces and glue as shown

Remove the next layer of the hatch pieces and glue as shown

Remove the small hatch hinges and glue them on. Then fold down the last bit with the point of your knife and glue them in place.

Do the same for the main hatches on the hull with their little hinge pieces (these don't fold down though)

Find the side pieces as shown

Glue them on to the hull as shown.

Find the cockpit cover

Score, fold and glue as shown

Glue it in place in the centre of the hull as shown and then add the detail pieces

In the real Ratel, these are hinged armour flaps that fold up to cover the glass of the cockpit when the going gets tough.

These little things are viewports (at the top) and rifle ports (at the bottom)

Remove them from the frame, cut them in half and glue them together as shown.

Then glue them to the hull where the guide lines indicate.

Add the hinges to the doors as shown

Add the air vent to the back of the Ratel as shown

Remove the little mounting pieces and glue them into their slots on the front, sides and rear of the Ratel

The bar on the side is held in place by 3 layers of card as shown. Glue it in place

Part 3 - the wheels

I am not going to lie - seven wheels each comprising 9 pieces? Big ask

But there is an easier way to do this. Make a production line

Build 1 wheel all on its own to see how it works and then the other 6 you can do all in one go.

The key to remember is that they are just layers of card that you glue together so that the ridge of one layer is in the valley of the next layer.

Don't line them up... offset them

The top image shows seven layers of the wheel.

The first four layers have a hole in them for the axel rod.

Cut out these first four layers in their order, thread them on to the axel rod and then put a drop of glue on the edges to glue them together (don't glue them to the plastic rod)

Then after you have done this for all the wheels, go back and glue the next three layers on in their order.

Once you have glued six wheels, add the six MDF spacers to them.

The axel rods should be 40mm long each - you are supplied with a 120mm lenght of 3.2mm diameter plastic rod.. use the guide that is cut into the wheel card to cut it into 3 equal lengths

Push these through the body and glue them in place.

You might have to adjust the fit between the upper and lower hull to get the wheels to turn easily

Once you are happy that they can turn, you can glue the upper and lower hull together

#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)