#strProject#: www.lasercutcard.co.za
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)
Before you beginMake images smaller | Make images bigger

The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card and MDF. To keep the parts on the card there are some small tabs that you will need to cut.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, cut through the remaining lines to release the part.

The MDF pieces only need to be pushed out of the frame. Some of them are quite thin so be careful with these pieces.

I use superglue for construction as it bonds fairly quickly (within 3 seconds) but feel free to use whatever glue you are comfortable with.

The Buffel and Moffel kits are very similar and I have reused some of the photos here. So don't get confused or surprised if at certain stages there are parts that you don't recognise :)

The MDF parts for this kit is shared between the Buffel and the Moffel, so you will have some parts left over.

Part 1 - the chassis

Begin by removing the parts shown from the MDF frame and gluing them as shown.

There are two things to note here: a) make sure the part that sticks up on top is on the left and b) make sure that the crosspiece in the very front has its little tab sticking up on the right hand side.

Assemble the support for the flatbed as shown.

Now remove the parts shown and add them on as shown in the second picture.

Now for the engine. The piece on the left with the slot cut out the bottom fits onto the tab behind the radiator.

Assemble the engine by gluing the pieces one on top of the other as shown.

Finally, glue it onto the front of the chassis using that tab to align it.

Next up is the turn of the wheel mounts. Not hard to do.

The tiny holes through the wheel mounts are there if you want to wind some wire through to represent the springs of the suspension (the real vehicle has monster springs)

How you do this is up to you though. The holes are just there if you want them.

When you glue on the piece marked with the red arrow, make sure that it faces outwards (so that the step faces outwards)

This little piece is the cab mount (the driver's cab will sit on top of it)

Glue it on as shown. Make sure the angled edge points to the outside of the vehicle as shown.

Next up is the mount for the spare wheel.

The little tab that sticks up is slightly off centre. Make sure it is closer to the shorter leg as shown.

Save this piece for now... we will add it after the cab has been added.

Next up are the differentials for the axles.

To make sure that the axles will rotate freely, glue these with a piece of the axle rod through them (but obviously MAKE SURE YOU DON'T GLUE THE AXLE! :)

Save these for now... we will add them later.

Remove the two engine cover mounts from the MDF frame.

If all has gone according to plan, you should have these pieces.

Remove the cardboard piece of the engine cover and glue it to the last two pieces as shown.

The only thing to be careful of here is that the MDF piece that looks like a J (the piece closer to the camera) must be on the right.

Part 2 - the cab

Remove the main part of the cab from the cardboard frame.

Everything on this piece bends "down" except the perforated part. This has to bend "up". You might want to gently score the other side of the perforation to allow it to bend easily.

You have a choice here to build it with "glass" (i.e. leave the cardboard in) or else cut the cardboard squares out.

If you are going to build it with no glass, there is a basic seat included in the kit. Assemble it as shown.

If you are intending to kitbash and use a figure from your bitz box as a driver you might want to consider building the cab around them.

Start by folding the sides in and the top down and glue them in place

Next turn it around, fold the "cheeks" in and glue them to the back.

Then fold the bottom down and glue that to the cheeks.

If you are building the cab with no windows then glue the seat in at this point.

Tuck the little triangular pieces that are attached to the cheeks in and then fold the rest of the cab round so that the bottom pieces meet.

Next remove the window edging from the cardboard frames. The two side pieces are very different in shape so they are easy to tell apart.

The parts for the top and front are quite similar and so they have been labelled with a "T" and an "F" respectively.

Glue them on to the cab

It's now time to mount the cab to the chassis.

The cab attaches at two points (shown by the red arrows)

Check the alignment before you glue!

Make sure that the cab is level, is straight and is correctly aligned. Look at it from the SIDE, the TOP and the FRONT to make sure that it is straight.

Now glue the spare wheel mount and the engine cover onto the chassis

Each of these pieces touches the cab.

The spare wheel cover glues into little slots on the chassis (red arrows)

The engine cover glues anywhere.

Remove the grills and bumper and attach them as shown.

Part 3 - the wheels

Each wheel is made up of eight parts.

Four of the wheels have small circular holes and one has a rectangular hole.

The rectangular one is the spare wheel

The wheels essentially have two parts:

  • the first three layers (that have etchings of the wheel nuts on them and do not have small holes
  • the next four layers that have small holes

Start by removing the first three layers and gluing them together.

When you are lining the layers up, make sure you offset the tread patterns.. don't glue them all up in a line.

Now remove the next three layers and glue them together. They have slightly different diameters so glue them together in the order they come off the frame

I find it easier to use a piece of the axel rod to make sure they are aligned properly

Finally glue the wheels together and attach the last piece (the rim)

Part 4 - bits and pieces

Assemble the fuel tank as shown

Assemble the transmission box as shown

Assemble the battery box as shown

Part 5 - the transmission

Be warned. This bit sometimes is dead easy and sometimes is maddeninly irritating.

You might want to fix a stiff drink just to be safe.

Glue the transmission box onto the frame as shown, with the two holes pointing forward

One of the card frames comes with these templates. These are the measures for the various lengths of plastic tubing needed.

  • A - this goes from the transmission to the REAR axle - cut 1
  • B - this is the axle length - cut 2, one for the front and one for the rear.
  • C - this goes from the engine to the transmission- cut 1.
  • D - this goes from the transmission to the front axle - cut 1.

Glue one of the axles into the wheel, then thread it through the suspension ring and slide on one of the differentials you made near the beginning Iindicated by the red arrow).

Then glue the other wheel on to the axle.

Try not to get any glue on the suspension pieces on the differential - you want the axle to turn freely.

Do this for the front and rear axles

Now slide the short length of rod, C above, from the hole in the engine to the hole in the transimission. There is no easy way to do this. Just try and balance it in the holes and then glue it in place

Then do the same with part D above, going from the front axle to the transmission.

Finally di the same with part A above, from the transmission to the rear diff.

Glue the spare wheel and the fuel tank into place as shown

Glue the fuel tank on as close as you can to the spare wheel as it might interfere with the bed

In fact you might want to hold off gluing the fuel tank on until you have attached the bed

Part 6 - the bed

Remove the bed and assemble as shown

Glue it onto the back of the chassis

Finally, if you want to, follow the instructons to build your two HEAVY MACHINE GUNS and attach them where you want.

#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)