#strProject#: www.lasercutcard.co.za
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)
Before you beginMake images smaller | Make images bigger

The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card. To keep the parts on the card some of the cuts only go half way through. In other places, a small tab has been left attaching the piece to the frame.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, flip the card over and look for the incomplete lines. You will only need to cut these lines to release the part.

It is strongly recommended that you use superglue rather than wood glue. Superglue bonds in about five seconds and also soaks into the card without warping.

Part 1 -the sides

Remove from the frame the two large sides that are marked with a circle at the bottom.

Remove the strip of glyphs from the sides (they are only attached at the top and the bottom) - hold on to these (don't throw them away).

You will notice that the large sides have a smaller shape engraved on them (these are guidelines to help you correctly place the next piece)

Remove the pieces that are also marked with a circle (shown in the insert picture) and glue them to the main sides.

Try and keep them exactly lined up with the guide lines.

This piece is the backing board - you will glue the glyphs back onto it.

Flip the sides over so that you can see where the glyph strips used to be.

Cut the small internal parts from the glyph strips and glue them into place on the backing board.

The easiest way to do this is to put a drop of superglue where you want them to go, then put them in place using the tip of your knife.

Now remove the other sides (these are marked with a square at the bottom).

Remove the backing boards for these pieces at the same time (they are rectangular).

Remove the glyph strips from these pieces too.

Now glue the backing board over the hole left by the glyph strips. There is no exactly correct position - just try keep it centred and make sure all the glyph strip hole is covered.

Then flip the side over and glue the bits and pieces from the glyph strip onto the backing board.



Now is the time to glue the sides together.

Please note!, The sides marked with the circles are WIDER than the sides marked with the square.

Make sure you glue the square side ONTO the circle side and not the other way round. If you do it the other way round your obelisk will not be perfectly square.

Start by gluing just a little bit at a time... there is no need to try and get the entire side glued at once.

Start with a length near the bottom that is around 3cm /1" long. Line it up perfectly and then put a drop of superglue on the join.

Once this has bonded, do the next bit. The card is flexible so you can adjust each section as you move up to the top, gluing as you go.

The backing board that was added to the circle piece is also there to help you align the side perfectly, and will strengthen the corner.

Once you have done one side, do the other two so that you now have two L-shaped sections.

Make sure you construct the two halves the same way!

Remove the base and top from the frame.

These have tabs cut into them that will line up with the tabs on the sides.

Glue the base (marked with a pentagon) into the tabs at the bottom of one of your L-shaped sides.

The main point of this base is to make sure you have a right angle for your sides (it is unlikely that you managed to get a perfect right angle when you glued it)

Use the base to align the sides so that they are now at right angles.

Once you have done this, do the same to the top (the top is marked with a hexagon)

Congratulations: the first bit is done!

Part 2 -the details

Remove the foundation pieces from the frame. Two are marked with squares and two are marked with circles.

The SQUARE ones are wider than the CIRCLE ones.

Starting with the CIRCLE ones, glue them to the bottom of the obelisk on opposite sides. They should exactly span the width of the obelisk.

You might want to flip them around so that the circle is against the obelisk.

Then glue on the SQUARE ones. These should perfectly span the width of the obelisk including the extra width added by the other pieces.

Remove the pyramid top from the frame.

Gently score the etched lines BUT DO NOT CUT THROUGH. You just want neat easy folds.

Take note that two of the sides are slightly wider than the other two. The wider ones are the OUTSIDE ones and the narrower ones are the INSIDE.

Fold them over and you will see that the wider ones will cover the edges of the narrower ones.

Dry fit them and then drop a few drops of superglue onto the tip.

Do NOT glue this onto the top of the obelisk (unless you are not interested in the crystal top)

Finally, remove the base parts and glue them together

Once they are dry, the obelisk can be mounted on them.


The old cardboard crystal (top) has been replaced with the new plastic crystal.

You can see how to construct it here: CYBORG CRYSTAL TOP

#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)