#strProject#: www.lasercutcard.co.za
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)
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The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card. To keep the parts on the card some of the cuts only go half way through. In other places, a small tab has been left attaching the piece to the frame.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, flip the card over and look for the incomplete lines. You will only need to cut these lines to release the part.

It is strongly recommended that you use superglue rather than wood glue. Superglue bonds in about five seconds and also soaks into the card without warping.

Part 1 - autocannons

Each autocannon frame has a small 'L' or 'R' engraved on the top. This refers to whether the ammo hopper is on the left or the right.

Remove the first two pieces from the frame and glue them together as shown. Each piece has guidelines etched into it - these guidelines should face outwards.

Now remove the next two sections and glue them to the first, lining them up with the guidelines.

The main thing here is to try and get the tops absolutely flush and the barrel ends absolutely flush (as per the insert picture)

These pieces also have guidelines so make sure you glue them with the guidelines pointing out.

Now remove the next two sections and glue them to the first, lining them up with the guidelines.

The main thing here is to try and get the barrel ends absolutely flush (as per the insert pictures)

Finally, remove the ejection port from the frame and glue it onto the top of the autocannon body (as per the insert picture).

Now remove the parts for the ammo hopper from the frame

The slots on part B will go into the rectangular holes on part A

Carefully score the lines on part A BUT DO NOT CUT THROUGH! You just want the folds to be neat and crisp

Glue part B to part A as shown. The point of part B is to make sure that Part A has nice right angles.

Now glue this piece onto ONE of the part C parts (do not glue the other side yet!)

Part C has guidelines etched into it to help you get it centred.

The frame has a little measure cut into the bottom. Use this measure to cut 6 lengths off the THIN plastic tube included in the set.These are your bullet casings.

Slot these into the ammo hopper one at a time. You can glue them if you want but they will be held in place by the other part C soon.

What to do if calamaty strikes and you lose the thin plastic rod?
You can buy more from your local hobby shop:
Evergreen Scale Models Item Code 222: 1/16" ROD (1.6mm dia.)

Once you have slotted in all 6 shells, glue the other part C piece in place.

Remove the other small circles from the frame and glue them on to the ends of the ammo hopper.

Finally, glue the ammo hopper onto the autocannon body.

The frame has a little measure cut into the bottom. Use the long side of this measure to cut a length off the THICK plastic tube included in the set. This is your gun barrel.

Also remove the three circles that have holes in them and the rectangular piece with a hole in it.

What to do if calamaty strikes and you lose the thick plastic rod?
You can buy more from your local hobby shop:
Evergreen Scale Models Item Code 225: 5/32" ROD (4mm dia.)

You may also want to buy more of this if you want the barrels to be longer.

Glue two of the circles to the end of the barrel and slide the last one plus the rectangle onto the end (but do not glue)

Finally, slide the end of the barrel into the autocannon body, slide the rectangular piece and the circle piece down until they are flush and then glue them all together.

I suggest using superglue here and making sure the barrel is straight before and during its application.

Finally, glue the final piece to the side of the autocannon opposite the ammo hopper. This is a spacer to hold the two autocannons together.

YOU ONLY NEED 1 SPACER so don't do this with both autocannons.

Once you have completed the second autocannon they can be glued together as shown

Return to the Shrine to Chaos
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)