Na-To Chassis:
Na-To Chassis Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)

The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card. To keep the parts on the card some of the lines are incomplete.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, look for the incomplete lines. You will only need to cut these lines to release the part.

I use superglue for construction as it bonds fairly quickly (within 3 seconds) but normal white wood glue works just as well and is a lot cheaper.

I normally use a tiny drop of superglue to glue the part initially, and then go over the entire join with white glue to make a very strong bond and also fill in any gaps (see the very last step for this)

Part 1 - the hull

Start with the main part of the hull and pre-fold it so that it bends easily.

If the score lines are not deep enough to let the card fold cleanly, lightly score them so that you get a crisp fold

Note that the sides fit behind the front and back (the front and back pieces are slightly wider to allow this)

Glue down the front bonnet as shown

Now glue the other side of the hull, again noting that it fits behind the front and back

Fold the back down and slide it under the rear of the cab. Glue it in place as shown

Glue the back of the cab to the hull

Fold the other half of the bonnet down and glue it

Fold the front of the cab down and glue it

Fold the back bin together as shown, glue it, and then attach it to the hull as shown

Part 2 - the tracks

The basic track assembly is made up of seven layers, glued together as shown.

If you want to make your model more detailed, you can remove the individual wheels from the little strips that are holding them together

I don't but please feel free.

Add the final layer of detailing as shown

The idler wheels (the small wheels at the top) are made up of 3 layers of card as shown

The final layer for the idler wheels are circles that have holes in them

For the tracks, start by taking two lengths of track and taping them together using masking tape (or any other tape) as shown

Fold the track round the wheels as shown and glue them in place

Real tracks are heavy so add in a bit of sag as shown in image 4

Here is a reference image for the two sets of tracks, with sag.

Part 3 - the details

Add the side armour as shown

Add the rear detail as shown

Add the front details as shown

The front grill as constructed as shown

Add the mud flaps as shown

Dealing with gaps

White wood glue is a perfect gap filler for cardboard models

Add a thick layer to any gap and then wipe most of it off.

When it dries, it shrinks down and fills the gap perfectly.

Na-To Chassis Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from