#strProject#: www.lasercutcard.co.za
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)
Before you beginMake images smaller | Make images bigger

The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card.

In the parts diagram to the left, the black lines are cut all the way through and the red lines are scored.

The red lines are intended to either be folded or (for some optional parts) cut through if you want to remove them.

To keep the parts on the card some of the cuts (the black lines) are incomplete.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, look for the incomplete lines. You will only need to cut these lines to release the part.

I use superglue for construction as it bonds fairly quickly (within 3 seconds).

Part 1 - the tracks

The tracks are on frames C and D. Each track comprises layers labelled with roman numerals 1-7 (I,II,III,IV,V,VI,VII)

The first part of assembling the tracks is simply to start with I and glue each subsequent part on top of it.

Line these up using the cog at the front

Then glue the rear cog, the five cut out circles plus the smaller circle on top of layer VII


Remove two of the front cog pieces from the frame. Align them up and then glue them together.

Glue these on to the front of the wheel assembly. Take care to align the spokes up with the ones on layers I and II

Once you are finished, the wheel assembly should look like this.


Remove two track pieces from the frame

Stick some masking tape to your cutting mat and cut off two strips. Apply these strips to the top and bottom of the tracks to join the two pieces together

This is only a temporary join but if you want to use a thin piece of duct tape or packing tape (i.e. tape that cannot be removed) that is fine... these pieces will be hidden once the tracks are on.




Start by placing one end of the track over one of the road wheels

Pinch it in place (don't glue yet) with one hand and use the other to wrap the track around the front drive wheel (the one with the cogs).

You might have to apply a little bit of pressure (pull it as you wrap it) to get the cogs to align with the holes in the tracks.

Once it is wrapped round, glue the tracks to the road wheels closest to the cogs.

Remember.. real tracks are very heavy and sag so if you want it to look as real as possible, try and have the track at the top touch all the road wheels so that it looks like it is sagging down.



Now wrap the rest of the track around the idler wheel (the rear wheel)

Warp it round until it overlaps the start

I have included a little bit of extra track so you will probably have to remove some excess (rather too much than not enough)

When you are trimming it, don't feel that you have to trim it at a specific link - cut the track whereever you need to to make it join up.

Complete the other set of tracks and you are done with part 1

Part 2 - the inner hull


Remove the inner top hull from the frame

If you want to model any of the hatches open, remove them and keep the bits.

If you want to model the open-topped version, remove the extra part as shown.

From this point on all the photos shown are for the open-topped version but the normal version builds exactly the same way.

Score the lines for the folds BUT DO NOT CUT THROUGH.

You just want to have a neat fold.


Fold the front and rear pieces down, hold them in place with one and and then put a drop of superglue on the inside. Capillary action will take this down and glue the pieces together.

Once it is glued, it should look like this

Remove the bottom hull. If you want to model the rear hatch open, remove the part at the back as shown in the insert


Score the lines for the folds BUT DO NOT CUT THROUGH.

Fold the front and rear pieces down, hold them in place with one and and then put a drop of superglue on the inside. Capillary action will take this down and glue the pieces together.


Remove the central hull.

If you want to model the interior of the APC, either because you are doing the open topped version or because you are leaving the rear or top hatches open, remove the section as shown.

Glue the central hull to the bottom hull using the tabs and holes provided.

Optional Step

If you want to model the engine compartment open or are doing the open topped version, remove the engine compartment walls from the frame.

Score and fold them as shown and then glue them onto the central hull.

If you want do model any interior details, like seats or cushions in the passenger compartment, this might be a good time to do it.


Now glue the bottom hull to the top hull using the tabs and slots providied

The model should look something like this at this stage.

Part 3 - the armour

Remove the top armour plate from the frame

If you want to model the open topped version, remove the central piece

Line it up with the hatches in the top of the vehicle and glue it down.

If you are modelling the closed-topped version, remove the outer armour plate and glue it in place, lining it up with the top hatch (red arrow)

Glue in place the utility hatch covers at the same time (orange arrow)


Remove the front armour plate from the frame

If you want to model the engine compartment open, remove the hatch

Glue the part you removed from the inner hull onto the back of the armour hatch.


Remove the searchlights from the frame

Score through the lines provided BUT DO NOT CUT THROUGH

Assemble the searchlights as shown and glue onto the front armour

Glue the front bottom plate in place

Remove the rear hatch from the frame

If you want to model it down, remove the main part as shown

If you just want to model the access door open, remove only it.

The hatch and the access door each have an interior piece of armour that only needs to be used if you are going to model the hatch or door open.

This is an optional piece on frame A (top left)

If you are modelling the ramp closed, glue it in place now. If you want it down, only glue it in place once the tracks are in place so that you can get the height correct.

Glue the rear lights to the back of the vehicle


Remove the side armour pieces from the frame.

If you want the hatches open, remove them now and glue the backing plates to them.

These are pieces you removed when you did the inner hull

Then glue the side armour pieces and the hatches in place.


Remove the side outer armour pieces from the frame and glue them in place (there are guide lines etched onto the layer below to help you place them.

If you don't want the side hatches at all, cover them up with the pieces of armour plate provided (see the insert picture).

Part 4 - the details

Remove the periscopes from the frame and glue them into the slots around the circular hatches

Put a drop of superglue onto the top of each one to strengthen them.

Remove the tie-down latches from the frame and glue them into the slots provided (pink arrows)

There are also some slots on the rear and front bottom armour pieces.

There are two extra pieces here in case you lose one.

Assemble the hatche pieces as shown. You can glue them open or shut.

You are done.

You should consider painting the model at this stage (or at least base-coating it)

I sprayed the entire model matt black with cheap spray paint, then painted it with normal hobby paints.

#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)