#strProject#: www.lasercutcard.co.za
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)
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The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card. To keep the parts on the card some of the cuts only go half way through. In other places, a small tab has been left attaching the piece to the frame.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, flip the card over and look for the incomplete lines. You will only need to cut these lines to release the part.

It is strongly recommended that you use superglue rather than wood glue. Superglue bonds in about five seconds and also soaks into the card without warping.

Part 1 - the frames
The barricade set comprises of 12 barricade sub-components (which I will call SHORT SECTIONS. All of them have exactly the same number of parts :
  1. A front layer (top left, no side flaps)
  2. A middle layer (bottom right, it has side flaps and a small circle etched into the bottom corner)
  3. A back layer (bottom left, it has side flaps
  4. A base (this is a rectangle marked with a hexagon)
  5. Detailing for the flaps (top right)

The barricade set has five frames in it, four of which are different. Take a few seconds to identify each frame.

This frame has some circles with NUMBERS in them. This will be referred to as FRAME A.

The pink area contains the parts for one SHORT SECTION

The green area contains the parts for another SHORT SECTION

This frame has some circles with STARS in them. This will be referred to as FRAME B.

The blue area contains the parts for one SHORT SECTION

The yellow area contains the parts for another SHORT SECTION

This frame has no circles in it and the parts are a bit jumbled. There are two copies of this frame. This is FRAME C.

The blue area contains the parts for one SHORT SECTION

The orange area contains the parts for another SHORT SECTION

.

The purple area contains the parts for another SHORT SECTION

Finally we have this frame - called FRAME D.

The purple area contains the parts for one SHORT SECTION

The blue area contains the parts for another SHORT SECTION

The green area contains the parts for the JOIN SECTIONS. The JOIN SECTIONS are used to join two SHORT SECTIONS into a LONG SECTION.

Part 2 - building the SHORT SECTIONS

All the SHORT SECTIONS are assembled in exactly the same way. I am using the YELLOW section from FRAME B but they all work the same.

  1. Remove the middle and back pieces from the frame (these both have flaps).
  2. Gently score the lines on the flaps so that they can bend back but DO NOT CUT THROUGH!
  1. Before you glue anything, line up the middle and back sections with one of the bases (these are marked with a hexagon).
  2. Pinch them together. The base is really there to make sure the flaps fold at 90 °
  3. Once you are happy with the alignment, put a few drops of superglue on the joins.

Your SHORT SECTION should look like this.

I suggest putting a drop of superglue on each spike so that it soaks in to strengthen them. This will help them survive the rigours of the table.

Now remove the two decorative panels for the side flaps and glue them on. These should line up with the TOPS and BACK of the side flaps.

Once you have glued these on, your SHORT SECTION should look like this.

Now line up and glue on the front piece.

You are done... easy as that.

Three of the front pieces have decorative elements that need to be removed and then glued back.

These are what the six different SHORT SECTIONS should look like once they are assembled.

Part 3 - the JOINING SECTIONS

These are all found on FRAME D.

The JOINING SECTIONS comprise 3 layers:

  1. A middle layer (undecorated - far left)
  2. A front layer (decorated with a star - centre)
  3. A back layer (far right

Glue these together like this.

Finally, choose any two SHORT SECTIONS and glue them together using a JOINING SECTION

Part 4 - the OBJECTIVE MARKERS

Remove the circles with the stars and numbers and glue them back to back. I have painted mine rusty and picked out the numbers in orange.

I changed the font for the numbers between taking this picture and producing the final version so your numbers will be different - easier to read plus the font is called DIABLO (far more appropriate)

#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)