#strProject#: www.lasercutcard.co.za
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)
Before you beginMake images smaller | Make images bigger

The components for the kit are cut by a laser into the card. To keep the parts on the card some of the cuts are incomplete.

When you want to remove a piece from the card, look for the incomplete lines. You will only need to cut these lines to release the part.

I use superglue for construction for the smaller parts as it bonds fairly quickly (within 3 seconds). For the larger parts, normal white wood glue works perfectly (especially for gluing the outer layer to the inner)

  1. Outer building
  2. Inner building
  3. The details
Part 1 - The outer building

Start by finding the parts for the FRONT WALLS. These have large windows in the front that are closed (represented by etched lines for shutters)

Each wall is joined together with small tabs to keep them safe during postage.

Cut the tables to release the parts as shown.

Please note that each wall has a small square etched into it on one corner: take not of this as it will help place the wall later.

Glue the parts together as shown (I used white wood glue).

Make sure that the holes in the pieces line up.

Line the rear parts up with the top and bottom of the front part.

This will leave a gap where the slots are for the roof.

Assemble the front door as shown

Note the way the front piece has a slight overhang on the front door (bottom right). This is intentional.

Find the pieces for the rear walls.

Although the two sets of rear walls look identical, they are slightly different lengths.

One set is marked with a TRIANGLE and the other is marked with a PENTANGLE

Make sure you glue the TRIANGLE to the TRIANGLE and the PENTANGLE to the PENTANGLE


Don't be afraid to take advantage of the cardboard.

Here, I etched in a brick design using a ballpoint pen. The cardboard is easy to etch so feel free to customise your building at any stage.

Remember.. glue TRIANGLE to the TRIANGLE and PENTANGLE to the PENTANGLE

Now get the roof piece.

Orientate it as shown, with the triangle on the bottom left and the pentagle on the bottom right.

The TRIANGLE wall will go on the bottom, the PENTANGLE wall will go on the right.

Start with the TRIANGLE piece

Glue it in place using the tabs on the main roof

I used a few drops of superglue at this stage

After this, attache the PENTANGLE wall

This is slightly longer and covers the end of the TRIANGLE wall

Now attach the side walls and the front door piece

The parts with the SQUARE etched onto them should be closest to the front door.

After this, turn the model over and put a layer of white glue into all the joins to help strengthen it

Remove the front door reinforcing parts and glue them into place by the front door

Make sure that these line up with the bottom of the door so that they do not block the slots near the top

Let this dry

Finally, add the detail pieces as shown.

Part 2 - The inner building

Start by finding the parts for the two smaller inner rooms

Make sure that they can fold easily.

The doors all start attached so you can decide the interior layout of your building by leaving some of them in.

For the instructions, I removed all the doors but it is your call.

Fold up the sides and glue them in place.

One set of sides is slightly longer than the others so that the joins cna be flush.

Remove the parts for the main inside room

Start by folding up the sides and gluing them. Again, one side will overlap the other to make a flush join.

Now glue on the long piece (it has 2 doors in it)

Make sure it lines up with the floor (it is slightly taller than the other sides because the other sides have a fold and this does not)

The long wall should rest on the floor.

Then glue the last piece into place.

It has a small square etched into it... make sure this is bottom left (this will make sure that the window lines up exactly with the window in the outer building)

Finally (if you want) you can glue the 3 interior rooms together as shown.

A note about the inside

The inside is mainly there to give the roof of the outer building something to rest on so that it does not sag.

It can, of course, be used as a seperate playing area in its own right.

During the game, you could slide the outside off, move models inside and then slide it back on.

Part 3 - The details

Start by finding the parts for the awnings

Assemble the support stands and the lower part as shown

Then glue on the upper detail level as shown.

If you are intending to keep your awnings removable (so you don't intend to glue them permanently to the building) then put a few drops of superglue onto the tabs at the end of the supports to strengthen them)

If you keep them removable, they will fit into the inside building (with the sign) for storage.

Finally, assemble the sign as shown

Part 4 - Downloads

Here are some files that might be of help in finishing things off:

  • bfh02-signs.pdf: this is a PDF with the signage as used in my models
  • bfh02-templates.dxf: this is a dxf (vector) file of the parts of the model that could accept signage. If you have Illustrator or Corel (or a similar package) then you can use these to create your own signs (you can use these to make clipping paths)
  • bfh02-posters.pdf: this is a PDF I made up with various posters.
#strProject# Instruction Set © Neal Crankshaw
Available from http://www.lasercutcard.co.za
This copy generated: #dateformat(now(),"dd-mmm-yyyy")# #timeformat(now(),"HH:mm:ss")# (GMT+2)